Remote Start, Electric Door Lock / Unlock

[hogrider80]

I just got finished with the rear passenger door lock. That's the first one of four. I discovered two things: 1) the buttons on the remote are reversed (and yes, I checked all wires for polarity and consistency with each other); 2) if you lock the doors with the fob and then there's a power failure, you are locked out of the buggy. The key will not unlock the doors once the DirtyTeeth system has locked them. This is a HUGE problem, obviously, and a big design flaw. I'm hoping I'm wrong. I have a request in for tech support, but they incredibly don't have a phone number to call. I have my buggy apart, can't proceed, and have to wait until someone reads the email and decides to respond. Absolutely unacceptable support model.

Oh, and the locks are hardwired. A better design might have been BT or other wireless tech. but you'd still need to run an always-on PS+ wire, so it wouldn't save you much. After this I re-emphasize that Polaris needs to provide factory installed central locking.

UPDATE: to be fair, DirtyTeeth responded by email very quickly and answered the questions, and they promised a follow up call to make sure it was all clear. It looks like the main harness wires were mistakenly reversed at the factory. They had identified the problem and remedied it, but apparently mine got out with the issue. They confirmed that if you lock the buggy with the fob then you cannot unlock with the key. You cannot lock with the key and unlock with the fob. The Dirtyteeth and factory keylocks are independent. If there's a power failure, then open the hood and jump it. But there's the rub: if I'm by myself, the jump starter is inside the buggy. Got no help from friends in that case. Argh. They need a small battery backup, for sure.

 

[Mr.C]

I just got finished with the rear passenger door lock. That's the first one of four. I discovered two things: 1) the buttons on the remote are reversed (and yes, I checked all wires for polarity and consistency with each other); 2) if you lock the doors with the fob and then there's a power failure, you are locked out of the buggy. The key will not unlock the doors once the DirtyTeeth system has locked them. This is a HUGE problem, obviously, and a big design flaw. I'm hoping I'm wrong. I have a request in for tech support, but they incredibly don't have a phone number to call. I have my buggy apart, can't proceed, and have to wait until someone reads the email and decides to respond. Absolutely unacceptable support model.

Oh, and the locks are hardwired. A better design might have been BT or other wireless tech. but you'd still need to run an always-on PS+ wire, so it wouldn't save you much. After this I re-emphasize that Polaris needs to provide factory installed central locking.

UPDATE: to be fair, DirtyTeeth responded by email very quickly and answered the questions, and they promised a follow up call to make sure it was all clear. It looks like the main harness wires were mistakenly reversed at the factory. They had identified the problem and remedied it, but apparently mine got out with the issue. They confirmed that if you lock the buggy with the fob then you cannot unlock with the key. You cannot lock with the key and unlock with the fob. The Dirtyteeth and factory keylocks are independent. If there's a power failure, then open the hood and jump it. But there's the rub: if I'm by myself, the jump starter is inside the buggy. Got no help from friends in that case. Argh. They need a small battery backup, for sure.

Wow, sounds like a lot of trouble and time for power door locks. I can understand if it was a daily driver and your in town possibly, but for myself, not worth it. Don’t get me wrong, the remote start would be cool and I’d probably use it.

Not a fan of not being able to use the keys to lock or unlock the door once installed. Like you mentioned, what if your out in the sticks alone, and your locked out? I guess your braking a window, or have a locked tool box in the bed with the jump starter.

I’m glad to hear they got back to you quickly. So are they sending out a new harness?

 

[hogrider80]

Wow, sounds like a lot of trouble and time for power door locks. I can understand if it was a daily driver and your in town possibly, but for myself, not worth it. Don’t get me wrong, the remote start would be cool and I’d probably use it.

Not a fan of not being able to use the keys to lock or unlock the door once installed. Like you mentioned, what if your out in the sticks alone, and your locked out? I guess your braking a window, or have a locked tool box in the bed with the jump starter.

I’m glad to hear they got back to you quickly. So are they sending out a new harness?

I use the buggy a lot on the trails and out there the locks really aren't necessary. But in Arizona the buggy is road legal, and we use it as a near-daily driver around town with passengers. The doors locks are a major boon for me. So, to be clear, if you don't lock the doors with the fob, then the factory key will lock and unlock the doors. But once you lock with the fob, the key is useless.

 

[Big Red]

The whole thing does not sound like fun to me. I'm old and stupid so I appreciate simple........I think I'll just kick it old school and lock and unlock the doors with a key the few times I do it.

 

[Doc187]

I was going to get the door lock kit but u emailed and asked if i can unlock with the key and was told no. I didn't like the idea of being locked out so i passed.

I saw on a Facebook group that a guy is coming out with an intermitant wiper switch.

I also just saw a kit that makes the dome light come on when the door opens. That and the wiper kit have my intrest but the locks, at least in current form, don't interest me.

 

[oneal]

I was going to get the door lock kit but u emailed and asked if i can unlock with the key and was told no. I didn't like the idea of being locked out so i passed.

I saw on a Facebook group that a guy is coming out with an intermitant wiper switch.

I also just saw a kit that makes the dome light come on when the door opens. That and the wiper kit have my intrest but the locks, at least in current form, don't interest me.

Those are the two most desired conveniences for me

 

[Mr.C]

I was going to get the door lock kit but u emailed and asked if i can unlock with the key and was told no. I didn't like the idea of being locked out so i passed.

I saw on a Facebook group that a guy is coming out with an intermitant wiper switch.

I also just saw a kit that makes the dome light come on when the door opens. That and the wiper kit have my intrest but the locks, at least in current form, don't interest me.

I like the sounds of an intermittent wiper. Depending on some factors, I could be interested in the dome light switch as well. But it’s no big deal for me either.

 

[Doc187]

To be fair, A jump starter in a tool ɓox would be enough insurance. If i drove around town enough to really need it i wouldnt be detered. For now I'll just keep my eye out the gas station window while i grab some beer.

 

[Big Red]

Around here messing with someone's SXS would be like kicking over a Hells Angles motorcycle. People drive them everywhere you see them at bars, restaurants, grocery stores, the local bank, feed store, you get it. I'm not saying it can't happen, but it just doesn't happen in a small town

 

[hogrider80]

I was going to get the door lock kit but u emailed and asked if i can unlock with the key and was told no. I didn't like the idea of being locked out so i passed.

I saw on a Facebook group that a guy is coming out with an intermitant wiper switch.

I also just saw a kit that makes the dome light come on when the door opens. That and the wiper kit have my intrest but the locks, at least in current form, don't interest me.

So, what you were told is not exactly true. I just finished my installation and I can speak with 100% confidence. The real story is this: if you unlock with the fob and leave it that way, then you can lock and unlock with the key. If you lock with the fob, the key cannot subsequently be used while the buggy remains locked via fob.

 

[hogrider80]

I finished installing the DirtyTeeth central door lock kit. Now that it's done I love it, but the path to the finish line was fraught with frustration and A LOT of work. It took me two full (long!) days to complete the job. As I replied to Doc187, If the doors are locked by the fob, you cannot use the key to lock/unlock any door. But if you leave the DirtyTeeth locks in the unlocked position, then the key will work normally. If there's a power failure, the locks will remain in their last state. If you put one of these kits in, the valet mode is basically unlock with the fob and keep it on you.

Here are my learnings from the install:

1. Pieces/parts are unmarked, and are not universal. That is, the cable from the module is unique to each door and unmarked; and the lock mounting bar and servo, as well as the actuation bar are unique as well. It's a good idea to figure out which is what before you begin, but not strictly necessary.
2. Take the rear headliner out before starting the process. It makes it WAY easier to run the cables. Side note: Taking out the headliner revealed something I didn't previous realize. The rear window has two quick-release levers/handles and they can be turned and the rear window tilted and lifted out pretty easily. Nice if you want an occasional near-open-air cabin.
3. Plan your cable routes before trying to run the cables to the doors. There's a lot of metal supports and cables above the headliner. If you don't do it right, you have to work backwards from the door and snake the entire cable bundle through and around obstacles back to the module.
4. The manual makes reference to the brains/module being up front. I assume that's so because if optioned that way, the module controls remote starting and an alarm system. I'll never use remote start so I mounted everything above the rear headliner and used the rear pulse bar to power the module.
5. Since the module is always powered, I suspect the buggy battery will need a trickle charger when parked. I did this before, but now I will always ensure it's hooked up when the buggy isn't in use.
6. The provided instructions need work. There are some unclear and incomplete instructions. I've already talked to DirtyTeeth about this and am sending notes, including the suggestion to mark all the parts for which door they're intended.
7. Although the rear doors don't need any modification, the plastic around the front door locks has to be relieved. The door panels are loosened but not removed, making the cuts to the plastic more fiddly. I used a Dremel with a cutting disk. Worked out fine, but I certainly don't like cutting up my still-in-warranty buggy.
8. The wire dressing takes the most time, if you do it like I did instead of what the instructions say. That is, I choose to completely hide the cables to the doors by taking off the connectors and fishing the cables into the factory door wiring harness. You thusly cannot tell from casual appearances that the doors contain non-standard electrical components. Fishing the new cable through these very tight factory harnesses and grommets had me cursing like a sailor and I was awash in silicon spray, but ultimately I am proud of the professional-looking installation.
9. The factory plastic trim U-clips on the outside door panel are sacrificial. Well, about 3 to 5 on each door are. The whole mounting system is obviously designed for the factory build and not field repair. Have plenty of 17.3mm long x 8mm wide clips handy to replace those lost to the insides of the doors (and they are unreachable, believe me). I bought a bunch on Amazon. Unlike the Polaris clips, they are metal.
10. If you have a pro installer do this job, you will likely spend around $2k (16hrs x $125). If they've done these installs before, then it could be less. The learning curve is steep, and what you learn on a rear door only applies to the other rear door and not the fronts. So when you do the first front door, you experience yet another learning curve. I would have WAY preferred to pay a pro to do this job, but there's no way you'll find anyone who can keep the price reasonable. If you could do the job in 4 hrs, then it might be worth it, but I would challenge any pro who says he can do it in less than 12, and I still say even a pro would need 16 hrs.
11. Is it worth the money and effort? For me, yes. In Arizona, this buggy is street legal and I'm sure you know the XD is capable of sustained 60-65mph in stock tune. I use it as my daily driver for errands, date nights, and even limited highway driving. I often take passengers other than my wife. I've become spoiled by my cars and trucks having central locking, and having to go around from the outside to lock/unlock, especially if I'm already in the buggy, is a real PITA. If there were reachable door lock buttons inside the buggy the central locking would be less compelling. I paid $750 for my kit last year, but now I see they're $1025. Whether or not it's right for you obviously depends on your circumstances and priorities. But I've said it before: this kit is not for the faint of heart regarding both complexity of installation and cost.

 

[Big Red]

Great write-up HogRider80! Thanks for sharing!

 

[Mr.C]

Congrats on getting it done and sticking to it. I can see the benefits in a daily driver and with passengers. Good explanations in your write up.

 

[Pgtool]

The XD is my daily driver. The door lock kit would come in handy every drive. Wife even says to get it for her too. The price and several issues are keeping me away though. A simple keyfob with lock and unlock buttons on the face would be much better for me than the LCD one that is primarily for the remote start with the lock buttons on the side. Maybe DTR will improve the kit over time and Offer remote options or reduce the price or both, but I am not holding my breath.

 

[oneal]

I missed this until now, great write up, very detailed. I am like you and would be matriculas with the wiring.

 

[Twrman 77]

Can anyone share on the remote start function how/where you duplicate the brake press for starting? I've reached out to a couple of different vendors and they won't tell me. Have to buy there product or bring the machine in and they install it. I've installed plenty of remote starters over the years and had this particular unit in my 2020 XP1000 and moving it to my 1500 Ultimate. Have all of the other functions figured out; just need to simulate the brake press. The brake pressure switch is different on the 1500 vs the 1000.

 

[JTBarlow]

Can anyone share on the remote start function how/where you duplicate the brake press for starting? I've reached out to a couple of different vendors and they won't tell me. Have to buy there product or bring the machine in and they install it. I've installed plenty of remote starters over the years and had this particular unit in my 2020 XP1000 and moving it to my 1500 Ultimate. Have all of the other functions figured out; just need to simulate the brake press. The brake pressure switch is different on the 1500 vs the 1000.

The controller has a wire that plugs in line at the brake pressure switch. And the controller sends the brake signal to start.

 

[Twrman 77]

What model/brand of controller are you using?

 

[JTBarlow]

We’ve got the Dirty Teeth Racing keyless on the Xpedition so far. We’ll be doing the same on the XD 1500